Captivating Calabria

Guest editor Beverley Byrne tells us why Calabria, Italy, is perfect for honeymoons.

In the 1970s, a young Swiss woman visiting Calabria fell in love, not only with her future husband but also the captivating countryside he called home. Together they established a trio of hotels around historic Tropea designed to reflect Calabria’s unique landscape and culture. From the romantic sophistication of Villa Paola to Capovaticano’s hedonistic charms and the family friendly Baia del Sole Resort, these hotels are sure to sweep you off your feet.

Night has fallen when my taxi arrives outside Villa Paola. The first thing I notice, apart from the intoxicating scent of jasmine, is a Romanesque church complete with belltower. I’m wondering where the entrance to the hotel might be when a door beside the church opens. Ricardo, the hotel’s sharp suited manager, welcomes me into a cloister while explaining this was once a monastery built during the sixteenth century to honour St Francis, Calabria’s patron saint.

Those monks certainly chose a sensational location. Invited to enjoy a welcome cocktail on the terrace, I’m bewitched by a full moon casting a cone of light across the inky Tyrrhenian Sea. Along the coastline twinkling lamps illuminate the marina and the village of Tropea clinging to the clifftop. It looks heavenly and I see why it’s known as the Costa degli Dei (Coast of the Gods).

If five-star Villa Paola’s architecture is classic Italianate, the interiors are pure contemporary chic. My room, one of only 12 in this adults only boutique hotel, is spacious with sleek modern furniture in neutral shades. Handwritten welcome notes and homemade sweet treats lend a personal touch. The bathroom, finished to high Italian design standards, features exclusive heaven scent Filippo Scorcinelli products. While my garden room overlooks a secluded terrace furnished with sun beds and parasols, eminently bridal suites in the blackcurrant coloured main building command the ravishing panorama which greeted me on arrival.

Below the main terrace, I explore gardens arranged across descending levels connected by stone staircases and secluded patios leading to an infinity pool. This also overlooks that beguiling vista which, by day I see includes the extensive market garden providing Villa Paola’s kitchens with organic produce.

The exhilarating menu at De’ Minimi, the hotel’s restaurant, is conjured by magician chefs who really know their onions. Talking of onions, Tropea is famous for a particularly sweet red skinned variety, guaranteed to make a star appearance on De’ Minimi’s menu. Featuring seasonal produce grown in the hotel gardens, each dish on my plant based tasting menu showcases humble vegetables transformed by ingenious cooking methods into works of art. Complemented by regional wines, each course is presented with elan by servers lovingly describing dishes like passionate parents listing a gifted child’s achievements. More than a restaurant, De’ Minimi is a theatrical gastronomic experience.

Exploring Tropea proves equally dramatic. Built into and on craggy cliffs rearing up from the sea, it’s no surprise to learn it was named ‘Most beautiful village in Italy’ in 2021. Labyrinthine streets lead to a Norman Cathedral dedicated to Saint Maria de Romagne who locals credit with saving the city from earthquake damage and two unexploded World War II bombs flanking the entrance.

A stroll through streets lined with restaurants and shops selling artisanal souvenirs lead to Piazzetta del Canone (Little Piazza of the Canon). Below, Santa Maria dell’Isola, a white church set on a sandstone outcrop surrounded by emerald sea and pure white sand, is Italy’s version of St Michael’s Mount. In a region blessed with breathtaking views  – mozzafiato, as they say in Italian – this is perhaps the most photogenic.

My next stop, Capovaticano, is another ‘mozzafiato’ Instagram worthy location. Just half an hour’s drive from its sister hotel, Villa Paola, this luxurious laid back resort is my idea of honeymoon heaven. With a relaxed vibe and a raft of activities to suit adventure seekers and beach bunnies alike, Capovaticano is where I’d choose to wind down after the big day.

‘Welcome to Capovaticano,’ states the card in my room, ‘Where relaxation reigns.’ I can’t argue with that. My spacious balcony room is one of 123 overlooking either sea or tropical gardens. The décor is serene with furnishings in muted shades of peppermint and mocha reflecting Calabria’s coastal colours. 

Whoever designed the hotel was no fan of straight lines. Architecturally curvaceous, even the enormous palm tree fringed saltwater swimming pool is invitingly voluptuous. While there are tennis courts and a Beach Club offering water sports fun and games, I’m content to lounge on a beach bed moored in blonde sand from where, on a clear day, I detect the outline of the Aeolian Islands and Stromboli on the horizon.

Having spent a relaxing afternoon contemplating the volcano, I can't resist a Sunset Over Stromboli massage. A pre-treatment tour of Capovaticano's Thallaso Spa, reveals indoor pools, a Turkish bath, sauna, wellness trails and peaceful gardens plus 15 treatment cabins where a carefully curated range of nature and ocean inspired treatments are conducted.

I'm delighted to discover my massage is taking place outside in a sea front gazebo. To the sound of waves breaking on the shore, the expert therapist soothes my muscles into submission. The experience is further enhanced by strawberries and sparkling wine served while the sun sinks below the horizon.

Like Villa Paola and family favourite Baia del Sole (offering child centred activities), Capovaticano's restaurants showcase Calabria's finest home grown produce. At breakfast, the scent of freshly baked bread and pastries merely hint at the vast display of tempting hot and cold sweets and savouries. Like my idea of the perfect Italian Mama, Capovaticano doesn't want guests to leave a table hungry. Virtually impossible with three restaurants including poolside Stromboli, Il Mantineo specialising in local cuisine or Stromboliccio serving refined dishes in romantic surroundings, all capitalising on views across the Coast of the Gods.

I can’t miss an opportunity to see this magnificent coastline from the sea. Capovaticano can organise excursions including cycling, diving and cultural tours plus boat trips. Mine starts from Tropea’s marina where I’m welcomed aboard a speedboat by wiry, nut brown Captain Michele.

While navigating between pristine beaches and rocky coves, Michele keeps up a lively commentary. Circling the remains of Roman built Hercules Harbour, he relates ancient myths and legends connected to this coast before dropping anchor in a secluded bay. I slide into azure crystal waters to swim among iridescent blue fish Michele calls Occhiata. Meaning ‘glance’ and recognisable by large eyes, they’re not only beautiful but delicious; cue Michele serving tasty snacks and delicate sparkling wine. On the return voyage, we pass ‘Lovers Cave.’ Michele laughs, ‘as youngsters our parents warned, ‘you visit that cave with your girlfriend, next stop, the church.’

If there’s any doubt amore rules Calabria, meeting Marco Furchi proves it beyond doubt. Marco and his sister Frederica conduct ‘wine and onion tours’ on farmland bought by his grandfather. An engaging and hospitable host, Marco reveals how their famous onions and grapes are grown and harvested before inviting me to lunch at the family home.

Beneath a vine laden arbour beside a garden where chickens peck among flowers and vegetables, I'm presented with countless homemade dishes comprising salamis and jams, chutneys and cheeses accompanied by fragrant Furchi wines. Nduja, Calabria's signature spicy spreadable pork, is new to me. 'Every family has their own recipe,' says Marco as I take second helpings complemented by onion salad and pecorino drizzled with orange blossom honey.

Only the week before, he tells me, the siblings presented a similar gastronomic event for guests attending a Villa Paola wedding. With the conversation turning to marriage, a beaming Marco reveals he's recently proposed to his fiancé. Proudly showing photographs featuring Marco kneeling and presenting a ring to his future bride, he asks, 'do you recognise the location?' I certainly do. Behind the joyful couple, there's no mistaking a radiant Capovaticano sunset painting the sky gold and pink. Conclusive proof that Calabria is the capital of romance.

Book it: Capovaticano Resort Thalasso SPA offers rooms from £210 per night, based on two people sharing a double room on a B&B basis. www.capovaticanoresort.it

Book it: Villa Paola offers rooms from £285 per night, based on two people sharing a double room on a B&B basis. www.villapaolatropea.it  

Book it: Baia del Sole Resort offers rooms starting from £110 per night on B&B basis. www.baiadelsole.com